Priming Take 2 and First Drilling

 So I had to redo my priming setup based on the issues found during my first session.  Luckily I had some scrap wood lying and I had an idea.  I went to the hardware store and got some wire netting which I stapled across the wood as a frame.  It allowed me to spray down and through the frame with no issues of sticking.  I quickly flipped the parts over and sprayed again without issue.

After ironing out my priming setup, I moved onto match drilling the J stiffeners.  They require you to mount at a specific measurement and drill along the length.  It is a lot of holes to match drill on one flange alone.  With some manipulating and moving as I went, it took me about an hour to do the top flange.  I am going to do all of the countersinking and river the nutplates before I flip the spar and do the bottom flange. I figured this would be easier instead of continuously flipping this spar over repetitively.  I now need to setup the counter sink cages and get those dialed in.

The new priming setup.  This worked much better than the paper itself.  

In other news, I received notification today that my empennage kit is finally shipping out today.  Its exciting to think that I will have a tail kit next week sometime.  However, I need to make space on the garage floor for it to sit.  My wing spars need to be stored appropriately and the minds at be seem to think storing them flat is optimal.  I am currently debating finishing the one wing so it can be put into the wing stand, but I am not sure.  I am very torn as it would be a great way to store the parts and open up additional space, however the work would take me quite awhile to do.  The other option is to put the spar back as it is, move some parts around and deal with the tail kit right away.  Either way I will be looking for space to store things as I continue building.  I'll post back what I decide to do in the next update.

First Priming Session.... A Semi Success

 So I decided to try and get started with the right wing since I didn't have the appropriate spar extension piece for the left side.  I got the spar extension and the splice plates all drilled and deburred and got ready to have my first priming session.  I am using the Stewart Systems EkoEtch and EkoPrime products.  I chose this product because its water soluble and easily cleaned up, not toxic like many alternatives, and has virtually no odor allowing me to spray anywhere.  I ordered it direct from the manufacturer because it was cheaper than many resellers.  Note, they took a few days just to ship the item, so it took over a week to receive it.  If you are in a time crunch, order it from one of the bigger resellers.

When I was planning  out my priming setup, I wasn't sure how it was going to work exactly.  I've never spray painted anything with a spray gun, so there is some learning to be had.  I bought a detail gun from Harbor Freight and it was relatively inexpensive.  The gun was easy to setup and easy to use once I got it hooked up.  The primer easily mixed with some stirring, poured through the strainer, and was ready to spray quickly.  I bought a roll of butcher type paper to use as a mat to spray over, however this would end up being a poor choice.  

I quickly got setup and etched the parts easily on my lawn.  I used a watering can as an easy way to rinse everything off and then busted out the red Scotchbrite.  After a good scratching, I laid everything out to get spraying.  I took pictures of the parts so I knew what was what after spraying, I noticed this will take some practice as the primer covers up the markings on the part.

Priming went well and I had no major issues.  The Ekoprime dries relatively quickly in only a few minutes allowing for quick sessions.  I flipped over the parts and got to spraying side two.  I left the parts for a bit to dry and did some other work.  When I came back to remove the parts, I came across my problem.  The primer was still slightly wet and not fully set, so when I flipped it, the primer starts to adhere to the paper below.  The result was some missed/removed primer.

Paper stuck to primer and ripped off when removed.

So I quickly realized my paper setup was not going to work.  I brainstormed and thought about all of the leftover plywood from building the tables.  I thought about what I could use it for and came up with a "paint frame" idea.  I cut out the middle of the plywood and hit up Lowes for some Hardware Cloth.  This is essentially thin wire mesh which comes in a roll.  I then cut down and stapled the mesh to the frame I had cut out which would allow me to elevate the piece off the floor, put it on a hard surface, and not have the issues the paper created.  

My primer frame setup.

Now that I have a frame to work with, I am going to do the left side pieces.  Van's sent me out the replacement part which was actually another right piece.  After a second call, Van's went and checked the batch and found a bunch mislabeled.  A quick correction and another piece was shipped and received this past week.  Now I have drilled and deburred that, we are ready to test the new priming frame out this weekend when its nice out.  I'll report back my results, if it works well, I'll probably cut up two more pieces to have additional frames for larger batches.

Section 13 Starting Troubles

 So I tried to start my build over the weekend and on step 1 of Section 13 I hit a road block.  I put the left spar on my workbench as the directions show the left spar at first, so I figured this is a good way to start.  I dug through my part storage and located the W1006E and W1006F pieces.  The W1006E is marked as Left and Right since you need one on each spar, but they are mirror pieces to each other.  When applied to the spar, there is an additional hole that should be in the lower flange when placed on properly (Page 13-2 Figure 1).  I put the piece marked Left next to my spar and the extra hole was not correct.  I took out the Right piece and the hole was in the same spot.  I quickly realized that I had been sent two "Right" pieces despite one was marked left.  

Note the extra hole in bottom left on both pieces.  These were marked per the original part marking.

So I quickly was at a grinding halt realizing the left spar had no extension piece.  I put the left spar back in the crate and placed the right spar on the workbench to begin.  I was able to quickly cleco together the extension assembly and do my first match drilling.  I deburres all the splice plate holes and put it back together for now until I am ready to debur the edges and prime.  I am holding off until I can do all of the pieces together in one priming session.

I reached out to Van's and they promptly apologized.  They are sending out another Left piece for me, I hope this one is marked properly.  I reached out to another builder who received their kit around the same time as me, and he actually had two Right pieces.  So I hope this isn't a bigger issue where many others are mismarked. 

So while I wait for the spar extension piece to arrive, I began step 5 and 6 in the meantime.  I took out the J channel and began to fabricate my W1028A and W1028B stiffeners for both wings.  This didn't take too long but it's interesting trying to use a tape measure on these weird shaped pieces.  Regardless, I got them marked up, removed the blue film, and got my bandsaw out.  It didn't take long, but I had to make a few extra cuts to get the long piece into the band saw straight without hitting the frame.  It worked out fine, and I got to sit outside enjoying the beautiful day while doing so.

My bandsaw setup in the driveway.  I wanted to enjoy the nice weather and minimize the metal pieces in the garage.

After a nice session of cutting down J Channel, it was time to bust out the deburring wheel and get to work. Getting the little curve of the J channel took a little practice for the first piece but I quickly got the hang of it and knocked out the J channels pretty quick.  The ends took a little more finesse to obviously deburr the cuts completely, and a quick run on the sides for any imperfections was all that was needed.

Deburr...Deburr...Deburr

For my first lengthier session, I really enjoyed getting things done.  I am looking forward to getting the stiffeners mounted for match drilling sometime this coming weekend.  I am trying to get much of the heavy and louder work done in the daytime to minimize my families precious beauty sleep.  I hope they appreciate the lengths of planning to minimize that I have taken.  Until next time...

Rapid Air System

 Prior to starting this project I only had a dinky little pancake type compressor.  Obviously this wasn't going to cut it for what I was going to do, and my garage only has three outlets in it, so space is limited for placement purposes.  I decided after some thought that I wanted the compressor at the back of my garage for a few different reasons.  The first is that my wife wants the garage on her side available for snow storms in the winter, so that took one outlet out of play.  The second side of the garage I utilize for my business packing and shipping, so I didn't want to move everything around to make space.  So this left me with the rear garage location only.  With this setup, I had to determine whether I wanted a long reel to use and drag everywhere or something different.  I did some googling and came across the RapidAir system.  This system uses semi-flexible tubing with push on connectors to make a air system.  I was able to put my compressor anywhere and run tubing around my garage for access.  The simplicity of the kit setup made this an easy choice and installation wasn't bad at all.

Main Compressor Hookup to System Regulator

The main compressor uses a standard flex hose to make connection to the "input" manifold, in my case it is the regulator.  This is what pressurizes the system and allows me to control the system pressure for all outlets.  I added a quarter turn valve after the regulator to allow me to isolate the system in the event I need to repair a connection or do maintenance, that way I don't drain the entire compressor tank when I open the system.

Main Drop Located Mid Garage

My main drop is in the middle of the garage off the main beam.  This gives me plenty of hose to work anywhere inside the garage comfortably and keeps the hose out of the way when necessary.  My secondary access reel is at the garage door which allows me to drag the hose outside.  This is my plan for my priming sessions, allowing me to go outside on the grass with the spray gun.  I added a filter and dryer in line to that output so I have clean air as shown below.

Air Filter and Dryer for Second Outlet.  Will be my outside paint hookup.

My "Remote" Hookup and Outside Reel at Door

After completing install, I have to say it wasn't that bad.  It took some time to plan the layout, cut the tubing, and mount everything up.  My only criticisms is that the kit doesn't contain any mounting screws, they make a size recommendation and leave you to find your own.  I wish they had just sent some screws with the kit.  So far this is a really nice layout and everything works well.  It allows me to keep the actual compressor as far from the bedrooms and minimize noise so I can work at night plus gives me flexibility to work inside, outside, or wherever.  I might add another hookup on the back of my house for pool stuff but that comes later.  For now, its plane building time.

DRDT Setup Finished and More Deliveries...

 So I got some time and finally made it to Lowes.  I was able to pickup some cheap carpet and cut it down.  I deliberately bought extra so I could cover the DRDT, Wing Stand, and some scrap to use as padding.  I still want to get a piece of ribbed carpet to act as a table runner on my workbenches.  I saw another builder who used that and it was convenient for when you dropped things as they would get caught between the ridges.  Regardless, I wrapped up the table in carpet and came across an issue.  The table dimensions really don't allow for the carpet depth, and as soon as I tried to put it over the frame, it wouldn't go down.  I ended up trimming the carpet to cover the tops and outside edges only, and ran it smooth to the middle edges.  I ran my hand all around and didn't notice anything sharp that will beat up the skins, but I plan to monitor it for a bit to be safe.  Anyone building this later, I'd recommend leaving a little space in the center gap to allow for the carpet or carpet across the top over the front.

Completed DRDT Table

After wrapping up the DRDT table, I got in my Stewart Products primer shipment.  My can of EkoPrime and EkoEtch arrived so I am now ready to start priming parts.  I looked into the first two sections of the wing build and thought about things I would need.  I have made my run to Harbor Freight for a Tap and Dye set for fabricating the tie downs and some other odds and ends.  I also have ordered some paint strainers and a vice for the table which should come in the next day or two.  I am hoping to start match drilling by the weekend.

In other thoughts, I also have been debating how to organize the garage.  I ended up buying two deep hooks to hand on the ceiling joist.  These allow me to hang the longer narrow pieces like J Channels, Spars, and such off the floor and out of the way until I need them.  The actual spar crate only has the two spars in it and I think I will be breaking that down soon.  My current though process is to build the wing stand sooner than later.  By building the wing stand, I can store the two spars horizontally together, put the larger skins underneath on the cart, and break down both crates for disposal.  This would open up the floor space for the empennage kit to arrive late next month sometime.  However, I looked through the plans and I think it might be wise to build in order versus jumping around.  It seems like if I prep the spars, I can then start adding things as I finish each section.

I also received my order from Van's for the leading edge kits.  I have decided to move forward and go with the FlyLED's lighting kits.  I am going to use the Original kit which is only Nav/Position and Strobe lights in the wingtips.  Then I will cut a hole in the leading edge in order to mount the FlyLED 7 star lights as my taxi and landing lights.  I have seen really great feedback on their products, the cost is significantly lower than ZipTips, and it can all be done myself without too much fuss or waiting for shipment.  I plan to order all of the lights when I get to the leading edge section so I can put them in with the skins off and not kill myself doing it after the fact.  The only thing I have to decide is whether I want to do the soldering and if I want to add the Cowl light designed specifically for the RV-10.  I plan to hold off on the Cowl light until the very end, but I will see how Guil from BuildFlyGo likes his setup.  He will be done well before me and I can get his thoughts on midline lighting as he isn't adding it for now.

Until next time...

Finishing Up The DRDT Table and A Van's Update

 I lost track of progress on the DRDT setup because I wasn't in a rush.  Now that I have the wing kit sitting on my garage floor, I had no reason to stall anymore.  After finishing up inventory, I got to work on getting this table put together.  I utilized the plans within the box and made the table. It went together pretty simply using a few nails and some wood glue to hold everything together.  I finished the frame and will be planning to head out to Lowes for some cheap carpet to line it tomorrow.  Once that is done, I can finish up organizing the tools, receive the primer I ordered, and get started.

In other news, I received notice from Van's that they are preparing to crate my empennage kit.  This was estimated to be ready for shipment in mid May.  This is only a month away, so I am debating waiting for the tail kit and starting that first like normal people would.  This would give me a bit of time to finish organizing and also not be in over my head at first.  However, I do need to organize the kits better if I am going to have room to work on the kits together.  I also decided to cancel my practice kit order.  They are backordered through at least May or June and it seems a bit pointless to now wait two months to do those when I will have two kits sitting in the garage.  So once I finish up the organizing of my tools, I think I am going to just get started.  Let's hope this doesn't backfire on me.

Inventory.... Inventory... and More Inventory

 Well there is a lot of work to do with the kits once they arrive.  The first thing is opening the crate carefully as to not damage anything, remove the packing list, and then start to dig through the packing material.  Van's does an exceptional job of packaging so much stuff into these crates very carefully.  They use lots of tape and paper to secure everything so there is little to no movement of the parts during transit. As long as the crate stays intact (thats the big part), there seems to be a small chance of damage.  A few things I've noted:

• Look out for the shipper to mis-orient the crate.  My one crate arrived on its side despite clear markings for which side up..... and the truck was empty otherwise so there was no reason for it.
• Look for damage on the bottom and sides, the forklifts can do some good damage if they aren't careful.
• Open and unroll all the packing paper, they wrap things up and you don't want to throw away a part by accident.    
• When inventorying the larger parts, you will come across a few items that are not labeled.  These are mostly angle iron, tubes, and some other odd parts.  Set them aside and finish the rest of the inventory.  Once this is done, then compare the remaining few pieces to the inventory list. It will be pretty easy to identify them at this point.  Then take painters tape and label the item with the appropriate part number for later.
  
• Another item I found helpful was to mark out where you put things.  Depending on your workspace, you should have bins or shelves that are labeled.  Then mark on the inventory where these items are for easy location later.
• I had one part which was "warped" but its due to how the part is pressed in the punch at production.  Since I am doing the wing kit first, I have not received the first part of the manual and need to download the details for straightening in section 5.

I spent about 5 hours or so doing the small hardware alone and probably two hours doing the main kit pieces and subkits.  This took up the majority of the inventory time overall separating out the mixed bags and putting everything into storage bins.  I found the Harbor Freight bins really helpful for this.  I think the small bins are probably the most useful but I had purchased a few of the medium ones.  They are a bit big for some items, but I'd rather have the space for later when we get into bigger items like fuselage parts.  As well, my tail kit is expected next month so I will be hopefully combining some of the rivets and bolts into one bin for easy storage.  

I'll update this later with some pictures of the bins and how I marked things for reference.  Until next time.