First Priming Session.... A Semi Success

 So I decided to try and get started with the right wing since I didn't have the appropriate spar extension piece for the left side.  I got the spar extension and the splice plates all drilled and deburred and got ready to have my first priming session.  I am using the Stewart Systems EkoEtch and EkoPrime products.  I chose this product because its water soluble and easily cleaned up, not toxic like many alternatives, and has virtually no odor allowing me to spray anywhere.  I ordered it direct from the manufacturer because it was cheaper than many resellers.  Note, they took a few days just to ship the item, so it took over a week to receive it.  If you are in a time crunch, order it from one of the bigger resellers.

When I was planning  out my priming setup, I wasn't sure how it was going to work exactly.  I've never spray painted anything with a spray gun, so there is some learning to be had.  I bought a detail gun from Harbor Freight and it was relatively inexpensive.  The gun was easy to setup and easy to use once I got it hooked up.  The primer easily mixed with some stirring, poured through the strainer, and was ready to spray quickly.  I bought a roll of butcher type paper to use as a mat to spray over, however this would end up being a poor choice.  

I quickly got setup and etched the parts easily on my lawn.  I used a watering can as an easy way to rinse everything off and then busted out the red Scotchbrite.  After a good scratching, I laid everything out to get spraying.  I took pictures of the parts so I knew what was what after spraying, I noticed this will take some practice as the primer covers up the markings on the part.

Priming went well and I had no major issues.  The Ekoprime dries relatively quickly in only a few minutes allowing for quick sessions.  I flipped over the parts and got to spraying side two.  I left the parts for a bit to dry and did some other work.  When I came back to remove the parts, I came across my problem.  The primer was still slightly wet and not fully set, so when I flipped it, the primer starts to adhere to the paper below.  The result was some missed/removed primer.

Paper stuck to primer and ripped off when removed.

So I quickly realized my paper setup was not going to work.  I brainstormed and thought about all of the leftover plywood from building the tables.  I thought about what I could use it for and came up with a "paint frame" idea.  I cut out the middle of the plywood and hit up Lowes for some Hardware Cloth.  This is essentially thin wire mesh which comes in a roll.  I then cut down and stapled the mesh to the frame I had cut out which would allow me to elevate the piece off the floor, put it on a hard surface, and not have the issues the paper created.  

My primer frame setup.

Now that I have a frame to work with, I am going to do the left side pieces.  Van's sent me out the replacement part which was actually another right piece.  After a second call, Van's went and checked the batch and found a bunch mislabeled.  A quick correction and another piece was shipped and received this past week.  Now I have drilled and deburred that, we are ready to test the new priming frame out this weekend when its nice out.  I'll report back my results, if it works well, I'll probably cut up two more pieces to have additional frames for larger batches.

Section 13 Starting Troubles

 So I tried to start my build over the weekend and on step 1 of Section 13 I hit a road block.  I put the left spar on my workbench as the directions show the left spar at first, so I figured this is a good way to start.  I dug through my part storage and located the W1006E and W1006F pieces.  The W1006E is marked as Left and Right since you need one on each spar, but they are mirror pieces to each other.  When applied to the spar, there is an additional hole that should be in the lower flange when placed on properly (Page 13-2 Figure 1).  I put the piece marked Left next to my spar and the extra hole was not correct.  I took out the Right piece and the hole was in the same spot.  I quickly realized that I had been sent two "Right" pieces despite one was marked left.  

Note the extra hole in bottom left on both pieces.  These were marked per the original part marking.

So I quickly was at a grinding halt realizing the left spar had no extension piece.  I put the left spar back in the crate and placed the right spar on the workbench to begin.  I was able to quickly cleco together the extension assembly and do my first match drilling.  I deburres all the splice plate holes and put it back together for now until I am ready to debur the edges and prime.  I am holding off until I can do all of the pieces together in one priming session.

I reached out to Van's and they promptly apologized.  They are sending out another Left piece for me, I hope this one is marked properly.  I reached out to another builder who received their kit around the same time as me, and he actually had two Right pieces.  So I hope this isn't a bigger issue where many others are mismarked. 

So while I wait for the spar extension piece to arrive, I began step 5 and 6 in the meantime.  I took out the J channel and began to fabricate my W1028A and W1028B stiffeners for both wings.  This didn't take too long but it's interesting trying to use a tape measure on these weird shaped pieces.  Regardless, I got them marked up, removed the blue film, and got my bandsaw out.  It didn't take long, but I had to make a few extra cuts to get the long piece into the band saw straight without hitting the frame.  It worked out fine, and I got to sit outside enjoying the beautiful day while doing so.

My bandsaw setup in the driveway.  I wanted to enjoy the nice weather and minimize the metal pieces in the garage.

After a nice session of cutting down J Channel, it was time to bust out the deburring wheel and get to work. Getting the little curve of the J channel took a little practice for the first piece but I quickly got the hang of it and knocked out the J channels pretty quick.  The ends took a little more finesse to obviously deburr the cuts completely, and a quick run on the sides for any imperfections was all that was needed.

Deburr...Deburr...Deburr

For my first lengthier session, I really enjoyed getting things done.  I am looking forward to getting the stiffeners mounted for match drilling sometime this coming weekend.  I am trying to get much of the heavy and louder work done in the daytime to minimize my families precious beauty sleep.  I hope they appreciate the lengths of planning to minimize that I have taken.  Until next time...

Rapid Air System

 Prior to starting this project I only had a dinky little pancake type compressor.  Obviously this wasn't going to cut it for what I was going to do, and my garage only has three outlets in it, so space is limited for placement purposes.  I decided after some thought that I wanted the compressor at the back of my garage for a few different reasons.  The first is that my wife wants the garage on her side available for snow storms in the winter, so that took one outlet out of play.  The second side of the garage I utilize for my business packing and shipping, so I didn't want to move everything around to make space.  So this left me with the rear garage location only.  With this setup, I had to determine whether I wanted a long reel to use and drag everywhere or something different.  I did some googling and came across the RapidAir system.  This system uses semi-flexible tubing with push on connectors to make a air system.  I was able to put my compressor anywhere and run tubing around my garage for access.  The simplicity of the kit setup made this an easy choice and installation wasn't bad at all.

Main Compressor Hookup to System Regulator

The main compressor uses a standard flex hose to make connection to the "input" manifold, in my case it is the regulator.  This is what pressurizes the system and allows me to control the system pressure for all outlets.  I added a quarter turn valve after the regulator to allow me to isolate the system in the event I need to repair a connection or do maintenance, that way I don't drain the entire compressor tank when I open the system.

Main Drop Located Mid Garage

My main drop is in the middle of the garage off the main beam.  This gives me plenty of hose to work anywhere inside the garage comfortably and keeps the hose out of the way when necessary.  My secondary access reel is at the garage door which allows me to drag the hose outside.  This is my plan for my priming sessions, allowing me to go outside on the grass with the spray gun.  I added a filter and dryer in line to that output so I have clean air as shown below.

Air Filter and Dryer for Second Outlet.  Will be my outside paint hookup.

My "Remote" Hookup and Outside Reel at Door

After completing install, I have to say it wasn't that bad.  It took some time to plan the layout, cut the tubing, and mount everything up.  My only criticisms is that the kit doesn't contain any mounting screws, they make a size recommendation and leave you to find your own.  I wish they had just sent some screws with the kit.  So far this is a really nice layout and everything works well.  It allows me to keep the actual compressor as far from the bedrooms and minimize noise so I can work at night plus gives me flexibility to work inside, outside, or wherever.  I might add another hookup on the back of my house for pool stuff but that comes later.  For now, its plane building time.