Vertical Stabilizer - Part 3 of 3

 So I have been busy lately trying to finish up the vertical stabilizer.  The kids went back to school last month and this has freed up a lot of time during the day.  It has given me a good four hours three to four days a week to get this completed, and I had taken full advantage.  So let's jump in.

Deburring and Dimpling - Take 1

After we finished the last section, the entire assembly was cleco'd together, the skins were mounted, and we were ready to start drilling.  I quickly match drilled the skin onto the associated spars and ribs and then started the most fun part, taking it apart to do it all over again.  I deburred all of the rib holes, deburred the skin, and I got ready for dimpling.  I had not used my DRDT yet, so I was excited to bust it out.  I got it setup on my bench and made a small adjustment to it because the dies were slightly off center.

I quickly worked my way through the skin and rib pieces.  They were pretty simple to work through.  One note to future builders, go slow and make sure to go in order.  Don't skip around or anything weird because you will forget one of them and notice it later (I missed one!).  The actual job of dimpling isn't very difficult, it just takes time to finish.  Once that was done, I went to work to completely deburr everything.  Deburring was pretty straight forward, I purchased an electric screwdriver to make it easier.  This tool was a god send, as you could just hold the trigger and move from hole to hole.

First Big Batch of Priming 

After everything was deburred and cleaned up, I sprayed it off with some fresh air to make sure there weren't any metal pieces floating about.  After my first try at priming the rear spar, I made some adjustments to my priming setup.  I got some frames from plywood sheet and bought some metal wire which I stapled over the top.  These were easily laid out over two long pieces of wood on a pair of sawhorse's.  This allowed me to manipulate the pieces and spray easily on my lawn.  I haven't quite figured out what I will do in the winter, but this works for the rest of the year.

My Priming Frames Setup

The priming went fairly well.  I am using the Stewart Systems EkoPrime and EkoEtch products which were well reviewed by Charlie Derk, another past builder in his blog (his blog is linked on my page).  The product is not as toxic as most of the other products out there.  I like this as I don't need to go as crazy and I think it will be easier to spray inside as needed.  The EkoEtch is easy to use, just mix it up in a spray bottle and spray everything.  After a quick spray, you scrub it down, and then rinse it off good.  One issue I had, I hadn't removed the outside skin blue plastic trying to protect it.  During the rinse/etch process, a small amount got stuck under the plastic which I didn't notice.  It discolored a tiny section of skin, but was easily cleaned up with some acetone and corrosion protector.  This won't even be noticed after paint down the road.

Priming Session In The Yard.

After getting the etching all done, I got right to work priming the parts.  The primer goes on pretty easy, I sprayed it all once in each direction then the other way.  It dried within minutes which allowed me to flip over everything and spray again.  It turned out pretty well, but I noticed I had some small sections where it was heavier than others, something to work on moving forward, but everything was fully covered.

Riveting Continues and Skin Riveting

After priming and letting everything set for a day, I got back to work re-assembling the parts.  I started to rivet up the rear spar and get things put together for the final time.  I wanted to try different things, so I tried using the squeezer for as much as possible and then utilized the rivet gun with an old fashioned bucking bar for the remaining sections.  

Aft spar riveting

I had a little issue when I first did the aft spar.  On page 6-4, you beginning to reinforce the aft spar with the VS-1017 doubler and the VS-1012 rudder brackets.  The directions don't really tell you any specific order to put these rivets in.  So I started attaching the brackets first, but I quickly realized I had no way to access the shop head of the middle rivets between the brackets.  So I got some practice removing the four rivets in one bracket so I could squeeze those rivets.

After the spar was completed, I got to work assembling the ribs and riveting those.  These weren't terrible, but there were some tricky ones to buck/squeeze due to the flanges or other rivets.  I think I had two rivets that ended up being unacceptable and had to drill out.  I tried to drill them as I did in my class in Atlanta, but they didn't come out as simple.  I need to modify and grind down the pliers a bit to make it easier to grip the shop heads after drilling.

After I got all of the ribs done, I got to work with the skin.  Once again, the skin takes a bit of maneuvering in order to get things lined up.  After it was lined up, I went cleco crazy to make sure things were lined up.  Get a good worklight that can shine into these parts, this way you can verify the rivets actually have captured the skin and ribs below.  The work light made this pretty easy to do.  However, alot of the rivet checking is done simply by touch with the rivet gauge due to the tight spaces in the stablilizer.

Riveting the skin on the Vertical Stabilizer.

It took me about two days worth of working, but I got the stabilizer skin fully riveted on.  A few were drilled out but it wasn't too bad.  I highly recommend trying to squeeze anything you can, but sometimes the orientation can be challenging.  The nice part of the squeezer is you can setup one calibration and squeeze a line in quick succession.  The bucking bar is a bit more involved and requires more thorough checking as you build.

So I have completed the entirety of section 6 now with the exception of the VS-1010 bracket as I am waiting for a new torque wrench.  I am going to start pulling the parts for the rudder out to get those laid out and prepped.  Hopefully next week we can get that started.

Completed Vertical Stabilizer

Things I learned or points for future builders:

• Get a carpet or something soft to "line" the top of your workbenches.  The skins and parts can get scratched or cut with too much bumping around.
• If you have the space for a bigger workbench depthwise, go for it.  I really wish I had a three foot deep table as parts would fit more nicely on it.
• Organize the parts as best as you can.  The worst thing is looking for a part an having no clue where it is.  I currently have most of mine in the crate, and need to spend some time organizing them better.  I am thinking of totes/bins with numbers on them and a spreadsheet. 
• On section 6-4 Section 5, make sure to do the doubler only rivets first, these are the AN470AD4-4.  Then do the 4-5 that hold the brackets on.
• Figure out your priming methods early and try to have an established workflow before you get to big batches.

Coming Up Next: Section 7 - Rudder

Time to binge watch some youtube for research first :)

Vertical Stabilizer : Part 2

 First Mistake

It was bound to happen eventually and I am glad it happened on a small piece like the Vertical Stabilizer, but I made my first "oops".  I had successfully finished match drilling and deburring all of the spar caps for the Vertical Stabilizer.  I had gotten to the countersinking section the spar doubler and misread the "Except the hole above the VS-1010-L" section.  I started to counter sink and ended up counter-sinking the set of holes that were supposed to be left alone.  I might of been able to make it work, however I decided I wanted to do it right.  Luckily, the part with shipping was only about $45 to replace and ship to NY.  I guarantee I taped off and marked those holes immediately before starting any drilling.

VS Continued

So last week after returning from Airventure, I was eager to jump back into the build.  I didn't find as much time as I hoped at first, kids being home in the summer makes it difficult to get time, but I eventually got some.  I completed the "remake" of the match drilling and countersinking on the rear spar doubler.  Then I carefully began to deburr and round out the ribs of the stabilizer.  The directions and all the videos I watched emphasize rounding off the front ribs very well to avoid any dents or printing onto the skin at final assembly.  I went to town with my deburring wheel and got some nice edges.  

VS Ribs assembled for the first time.

The part is finally beginning to look like something of an actual part now.  It took a little trial and error to get comfortable with the ribs.  I tooled around with the 1 inch deburr wheel, a metal file, the yellow handle debur tool from Cleaveland (with the sharp edge), and the big deburring wheel.  I figured out what works and what doesn't work for me at least.  At Airventure, there was some discussion by different people about how much to deburr.  It seemed like many of the pros felt some people overdo the deburring process. I know on "Missile 29's" videos, he went pretty crazy on his VS and had noted he probably overdid it himself.  I made sure to remove any large bumps on the edges and ran the deburr wheel/tools around the other edges quickly.  I couldn't feel any major burrs and went with it.

After I did the match drilling on the ribs and finished deburring, it was time to bust out my first skin.  The Vertical Stabilizer skin is a pretty awkward skin to work on my little benches.  I got it up on a chair and spent a few minutes trying to simply get the blue protective film off.  It was finally completed and time to slip the skin over the substructure.  A lot of the videos I had watched all mentioned the skin was pretty snug and most had difficulty at first getting it on.  I had read the entire section and first tried to do one side at a time.  This proved to be a decent start,  but I quickly realized you needed access to the ribs to "manipulate" some small corrections to line things up.  

As a result, I then decided to try and follow the rivet order and start in the middle at the front of the VS1014 rib.  This was the key, but lining up that very first hole was a pain.  I recommend getting one side on and then standing the structure as in the picture above.  Put downward pressure onto the top of the skin pushing the skin "into" the structure.  As long as the rib is lined up right, the hole quickly should come into view.  Once those two holes are in, everything else was pretty easy, just move in straight lines.  It only took about 90 minutes of trial and error to figure that out and get it all cleco'd up.  It was getting late and the kids don't show any sympathy for my late hour build sessions. 

 

VS Skin completely cleco'd to the substructure.

My next session will include the match drilling of the skin, deburring all the holes and ribs, and my first dimpling session.  I am looking forward to getting that done and then final assembly of the Vertical Stabilizer.

Tail Kit Has Begun!

Inventory of Tail Kit 

Well I have successfully completed the inventory of the tail kit.  I luckily had no backordered parts so I can get going without any hiccups.  After about 5 hours of tedious counting and sorting, the small hardware is sorted and boxed away.  The skins and larger pieces are in the middle of the garage, I need to sort through them a bit more when I get a free minute.  I would like to condense the wing and tail kit boxes together if I can to free up more floor space.  I will probably do that after I get back from my visit to Osh Kosh for Airventure 2022!

Chapter 6: The Vertical Stabilizer Begins...

Now that inventory is completed, I pulled out the beginning parts and got started on section 6, the Vertical Stabilizer.  The beginning has you do some cutting on the spar caps and lots of match drilling.  I know the kit is mostly final size drilled, but some things like these spar caps have no holes when they arrive.  So I busted out the old air drill and went to town, I noticed it makes my compressor run non stop, so I am debating trying out my cordless drill for the next part and compare.  I know many have debated the ease of use vs the heavier tool, but I want to try it myself.  The other thing I noticed is my band saw it a little on the "touchy" side.  Any little movement and I honestly think it has some wiggle into the band itself.  I was trying to be as straight and precise, but it was not the prettiest thing I have done.  Cutting a 16" straight line on such a narrow piece is not very easy to do.  It has plenty of edge distance and I got lots of deburring practice and cleaned it up a bit.  

Spar Caps Cut and Cleco'd

Spar Caps Cleco'd To the VS Spar

After that I dove into and started drilling the Spar Caps to the Spar web.  This wasn't terrible but it is lots of drill, cleco, uncleco, deburr, cleco and repeat.  I can see why many of the older builders mentioned the final size holes being a godsend for us newer builds.  I can see how this extra step on a lot of parts to upsize everything can be a pain.  I found the time outside so far relaxing and enjoyable.  I hope to get the flange side done this week before leaving for Osh Kosh, my hope is to get the ribs together and maybe have a skin cleco'd before I leave.  

Airventure 2022 is Finally Here!

So Airventure is finally here.  I have been waiting for a full year since my best friend and I decided we were going to go.  It's been bittersweet to plan and think about everything.  Getting to meet some of the builders I follow online, seeing some of their completed projects, and also seeing lots of products on the market in person is going to be amazing.  One of the big reasons I got into the Van's project was everyone always spoke of the Van's Community as being the best of them out there.  The builders I have interacted with and followed all talk about that and it seems many of them build a lot of those bonds at Airventure.  I hope to meet many builders at the RV Social or Van's banquet.  I also am hoping to get some time to walk through the Homebuild camping/parking and see some finished RV-10's.  I'd love to meet some of the builders as well and pick their brain about things they opted to do or not do on their project.  One of the hardest things is making these decisions, but luckily I have some time for the big ticket items.

My buddy and I will be flying out on Monday and staying in Appleton for the 4 days we are staying.  Unfortunately we both have younger kids, and I don't think either of us could afford a divorce over this trip.  We are both blessed to have such amazing and understanding wives to let us embark on this adventure.  It might not be the big adventure of flying there ourselves, but that will come in time.  We are both in our 30's and we hopefully will have many more years to try and attend in a plane ourselves.

As I mentioned, I hope to see some items like lighting and rudder trim.  I know some builders use the aerosport product, some have a servo based system, and others just put a wedge on.  But I think taking a look at the various builds and picking the brains would be beneficial.  I am hoping to get to a few seminars and also take a trip out to checkout Fisk and maybe the tower, I am a controller after all and seeing that operation would be awesome.  So until I get back to Airventure, thanks for reading and Rock you wings.  Welcome to Airventure 2022!

Got reposted by EAA for my Airventure post!